Why most best-of lists won't help you
Search for the best sunscreen under makeup and you'll find plenty of lists: ten products, ranked by someone who tried them on their skin, with their foundation, in their climate. What they can't tell you is whether a formula will sit well under your makeup, on your skin, through your day.
I know this frustration well. Sunscreen under makeup is the reason I started RoseKin. In 2016 I tried the products on the market, and none of them were good enough to wear under makeup every day. So I made my own, and in 2018 RoseKin was born.
So instead of another ranked list, here's what I was missing back then: a way to judge a sunscreen yourself, and a simple one-week test you can run on your own face.
The four things that actually matter
When dermatologists and cosmeticians recommend a sunscreen, they look past the marketing. These are the four things I'd ask you to check before you buy.
1. Broad-spectrum protection, not just a high SPF
SPF measures protection against UVB, the rays behind sunburn. It says nothing about UVA, which reaches deeper into the skin and is behind premature skin ageing. So a high SPF can still come with thin UVA protection.
In the UK and EU, look for the UVA circle on the pack. It means the UVA protection is at least a third of the SPF on the label, measured with the EU lab method. Asian formulas often show a PA rating instead, from PA+ up to PA++++.
2. The filter system: mineral, organic or both
Mineral filters (zinc oxide and titanium dioxide) and organic filters (often called chemical) can both protect well. Mineral-only formulas are often preferred for reactive skin, while modern organic filters tend to feel lighter and more transparent. Many of the most wearable formulas combine the two. Under makeup, how the whole formula behaves matters more than the filter type: does it spread evenly, leave a white cast, stay put under foundation?
The make-ups from RoseKin have fully convinced us both medically and aesthetically at Dermakos. They contain a modern and reliable UVA and UVB filter system, which is quite rare, and at the same time impress with a pleasant and lightweight texture.
— Dermakos, Dermatological Cosmetics, Frauenfeld
3. Skincare ingredients that earn their place
A sunscreen you wear every day sits on your skin for hours, so what else is in it counts. Many formulas pair UV filters with skincare ingredients such as niacinamide, or antioxidants like vitamin E. Check whether the ingredient is there at a level that does something, or only so it can be printed on the box. For example, instead of just listing “niacinamide”, look for a stated amount like “2% niacinamide”.
4. A format you'll actually reapply
Sunscreen wears off through the day: sweat, oil, your own hands. An SPF you top up at lunchtime does more for you than a higher number you apply once and forget. So before you buy, ask yourself how you'll refresh your protection at 2pm without redoing your makeup. A cream won't go over a finished face. A mineral powder will.
This is the checklist I formulate against, and it's how our sun protection under makeup range is built.
Texture and finish: what sits well under foundation
This is where most sunscreens succeed or fail. A formula can feel lovely on its own and still go wrong under foundation.
- Match the base. Water-based sunscreens tend to sit best under water-based foundations, and silicone- based ones under silicone-based foundations. When they don't match, they can repel each other and your foundation separates (Lab Muffin explains why). The same goes for a liquid foundation with SPF: check what's underneath it.
- Choose the finish for your skin. Oily skin usually does best with a matte sunscreen, which gives foundation something to grip. Dry skin often prefers a dewier one, though dewy under dewy can turn shiny by midday.
- Understand pilling. Sunscreen pilling is when the product rolls into little flakes as you blend makeup on top. The usual causes are too many layers underneath, rubbing instead of pressing, products that don't mix, and not enough time to set.
- Check for white cast in daylight. A cast you can't see in the bathroom mirror can show up by a window or in photos.
Texture is the first thing makeup artists notice. Here's what one told us about our makeup:
Wonderful texture, easy handling, medium coverage for a natural finish... I love the beautiful texture and the radiant finish. The make-up covers well without looking unnatural, and leaves a healthy glow.
— Anna Makeup
Sunscreen before or after makeup?
Before. Sunscreen is the last step of your skincare. It needs to sit directly on your skin as an even layer. A liquid sunscreen applied over foundation can't do that, and it smudges everything underneath.
Sunscreen or primer first? Sunscreen. Primer is the first step of your makeup, so it goes on once your sunscreen has set.
- Cleanse.
- Serum and moisturiser, if you use them.
- Sunscreen, generously, including your neck and ears.
- Let it set.
- Primer, foundation and the rest of your makeup.
How long should you wait? Around 10 to 15 minutes, a little longer for rich textures or on humid days. My simple test: tap your cheek with a clean finger. If it no longer feels wet or tacky, you're ready for makeup.
Wondering how much sunscreen on face you really need? That has a guide of its own. So does topping up once your makeup is on, which needs a different approach: see my guide to sunscreen over makeup.
How to test a sunscreen on your own face
No review can tell you how a sunscreen behaves with your skin and your foundation. A week of testing can. Wearing sunscreen with makeup every day only works if the two get along, so here's my method:
- Patch test first. Try a little along your jawline for a day or two.
- Day one: sunscreen alone. Let it set and check the finish in daylight: white cast, shine, tackiness.
- Days two and three: with your own foundation. Apply it the way you always do and watch for pilling as you blend.
- Check at midday and in the evening. Separation and slipping show up first around the nose, chin and forehead. Did your foundation fade faster than usual?
- Change one thing at a time. If it pilled, try fewer layers underneath, a longer wait or pressing instead of rubbing before you give up on it.
- Try your top-up. At least once, refresh your protection at midday the way you would on a normal workday.
After a week you'll know more than any list could tell you.
Where RoseKin fits
I said I wouldn't rank products, and that includes my own. So here's simply what each one is for.
- Daily Protection Hydrating Day Cream SPF 30. Our day cream with SPF is the sun protection step under your makeup: hydrating, with niacinamide, and a mix of mineral and organic filters. PA+++ equivalent, with the EU UVA circle.
- Daily Protection Liquid Foundation SPF 50+. My first product, made for exactly this problem. I formulated it at SPF 50+ so it would still give real protection when it isn't applied thickly. PA++++ equivalent, with the EU UVA circle. It contains 2% niacinamide and is non-comedogenic.
- Daily Protection Mineral Loose Powder SPF 50+. Our SPF powder is for refreshing your protection over makeup during the day. 100% mineral filters (zinc oxide and titanium dioxide) with SPF 50+ and PA++++ equivalent, with the EU UVA circle. Non-comedogenic, with no fragrance in its ingredient list.
What they're not: beach or sports sun protection. They're made for everyday life. For a day at the beach, a long hike or sport outdoors, add a dedicated sunscreen and reapply it often.
And in the spirit of honesty: the foundation and day cream contain fragrance, added to mask the natural scent of the other ingredients. If you'd rather avoid fragrance, choose the powder.
These products were tested independently in Italy to meet ISO 24443 and ISO 24444 standards. Learn more about the science behind RoseKin.
Frequently asked questions
What is the best sunscreen to wear under makeup?
The one you'll happily wear every day: at least SPF 30 with the UVA circle, a texture that suits your skin and your foundation, and an easy way to top up. Test it with your own foundation for a week before you decide.
Should sunscreen go on before or after makeup?
Before. It's the last step of your skincare and needs to set before makeup goes on. To refresh your protection later in the day, use something made to go over makeup, such as an SPF powder.
Sunscreen or primer first?
Sunscreen first. Primer is part of your makeup, so it goes on top once your sunscreen has set.
Do I still need sunscreen if my foundation has SPF?
I recommend it, yes. An SPF 50+ foundation is a real extra layer of protection, but most of us apply foundation far more thinly than the amount used in SPF testing. A sunscreen or day cream with SPF underneath gets your base protection right.
My final word
The best sunscreen under makeup for you is the one that disappears under your foundation, lasts through your day and gets used every single morning.
RoseKin combines modern UV protection with caring ingredients and pleasant textures, making it easy to integrate sun protection naturally into a daily skincare routine... I especially appreciate the combination of protection, care, and a natural, even complexion. As a result, my clients use sun protection consistently in their everyday lives.
— Karin Hjelmland, Beauty Lounge
Consistently. That's what it comes down to. The sunscreen you wear every day protects you better than the perfect one sitting in a drawer.
With love,
Jessica
Founder of RoseKin Cosmetics
This article is intended for general education and does not replace individual advice from a dermatologist or physician. RoseKin products are cosmetic products; no product on this page is intended to treat, cure, or prevent any medical condition.
